Tuesday, November 30, 2010

On My Own: An American in Paris

My days on my own in Paris were...magical. I laughed, I cried, I saw beautiful things, I ate food from heaven, got kicked out of a couple places for being an artist. You know the usual.

I found that traveling alone really isn't very hard to do. And if you embrace it like I did, its far more rewarding that almost any other trip. Not that I don't like traveling with others, Its nice to have someone to share things with. But sometimes, its better to keep something for yourself: like a secret. And it's refreshing to be totally selfish for a change, and not worry about inconveniencing anyone you're traveling with. This trip was basically like one of those silent retreats for me, seeing as I don't speak French past "I'd like that", and "where's the bathroom"? But because there was a language barrier, I didn't have to assume the responsibilities of a regular person because I could always blame my mishaps on not understanding the language! So, I basically got to be a little bit of a jackass and ignore some rules. 
I also found that if someone did speak english, we suddenly became BFFs. That's why going into Shakespeare and Co. was so nice; because everyone there speaks English! It was like a feast for my verbal functions. Chatting with someone without the furrowed brow of constant translation was a welcomed change.

But, regardless of my ignorance of French, I tried my hardest to communicate in it as much as possible. I think thats why people tended to like me. I'm also pretty good at accents, so often times people would assume I spoke way more than I actually did. I would say hello and they would go off on some long string of gibberish and I would just nod my head and say "oui oui, d'accord." Then they obviously knew I was foreign, and would ask if I spoke English. 

But my favorite french friend was the maid in my hotel, who spoke no English at all. I checked in early and she was still cleaning, and we had the most glorious one part French, three parts sign language conversation. She would be around everyday and we would always joke with each other and laugh because we knew neither one of us had any idea what the other was saying. She was very sweet and I think she liked me because I was obviously traveling alone. On the day I checked out I had left my backpack in the lobby because I had a lot of time to wander around before I had to leave for my flight. Apparently I had left one of my fuzzy sleeping socks in my room, and when I returned to pick up my luggage I found it sitting neatly folded on my backpack. That warmed my heart, because I knew she had taken the effort to give it back to me. I think its kind of ironic that the person who showed the most kindness to me, didn't even speak any english at all! It just goes to show you how superficial the language barrier between people actually can be. 

I spent most of my time finding places to have fancy tea, wandering the city, and drawing. The best thing was that because I am an EU student, I got into all of the museums for free. I went to the Louvre at least 3 times, and the Musee d' Orsay at least twice. I was totally depressed though because the Musee d' Orsay was going through renovations. Only the first 2 floors were open and a lot of the collection was on a traveling exhibition. Including the ballerina statue by Degas which had changed my world when I was 13 and first saw it!  I was dying to see it again and I was so sad it wasn't there. Both of these museums have late nights, which is the best time to go. They are less crowded and if you want to sketch, no one really bothers you. Except if you get into an art trance like me, and have a mob of angry french guards kick you out because you lost track of time and stayed until 9:45 (they don't kid at the Louvres about closing time). 

I also saw the Marriage of Figaro at the Bastille Opera. I serendipitously ended up in the right line for  buying late tickets, and made friends with an old couple who helped me work the ticket system. I ended up waiting for like 2 hours, but it was all worth it because I got the second to last ticket! It was on the expensive side, but it was SO worth it. I was sitting on the level with all of the super fancy people who were poppin' Champagne! The performance was spectacular, the actors were the most talented singers I have ever seen perform live, and the costumes and set were beautiful. I also had no idea what was really going on, seeing as it was in Italian with French subtitles. But I enjoyed it none the less. In fact, I think I have turned into a bit of an opera aficionado. I just can't get enough!  

I found a great Jazz place too. I would just get wine and sit and sketch the musicians. It was pretty much a dream come true.

Anyway, here are some photos from my last days in France: 
My view from my room at Hotel Rive Gauche 
On my first day on my own, the sun came out to say hello

Louvres

Any photos of me were the result of "the photo swap. This is something you have to master if you are traveling alone or in a small group. Basically you find a nice couple, ask if they'd like a picture and ask if they'd take one of you in return. This works really well in touristy places where everyone is taking photos! I learned this tactic from the woman and her husband who took this photo. (ps. it's also a great way to meet some new people on your travels!) 



The Bastille Opera

I posted all of my artwork from Paris on my art blog: click here to see it on hellomaura.
Oh and the morning before I left for the airport, I ate a croissant and walked along the banks of the River Seine. I felt just like Gene Kelly, and all I needed was a group of french children to sing "I Got Rhythm" to.  Then I went to the Crillon (the fanciest hotel in Paris) had tea and played name that designer with myself as I gazed at the swanky people having tea as well. Best trip ever.

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